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decoupage streaks

I'm doing decoupage, a beginner, and I am just stumped. I have streaks/ridges/lines in my decoupage. It has dried glossy and shiny but is not at all smooth. I used mod podge and a foam brush. How do you decoupage without streaks?


( 17 comments — Leave a comment )
Jul. 6th, 2007 01:59 am (UTC)
try a paint brush.. i don't know. i suck.
Jul. 6th, 2007 02:25 am (UTC)
Mod Podge has always streaked when I've used it. Real decopage involves layers and layers of varnish that is wet sanded between each layer. I don't know if this would work with MP since it's water soluble tho. Maybe a little dry super fine steel wool?
Alternatively you could thin down some white glue and use that to apply your image(s) then varnish for gloss.
Good luck.
Jul. 6th, 2007 02:33 am (UTC)
UGH Never again will I ask the person at Hobby Lobby for help. I've never done decoupage and didn't know what was used. Ok I'll use varnish but what is wet sanding?
Jul. 6th, 2007 02:49 am (UTC)
The varnish method is very old school! No one at Hobby Lobby has probably ever heard of it, so don't be too hard on them~;0) Wet sanding is using very fine sand paper on a wet surface. You could probably find an old book with instructions at the library or maybe google it. I've only seen it done, I've never actually done it myself. I go with the MP but I like the brush strokes!
Jul. 6th, 2007 04:03 am (UTC)
Mod Podge is used for decoupage, so it was not a bad answer.
But yes, as someone who has worked at Hobby Lobby, I wouldn't trust an empolyee answer! (That goes for most stores now-a-days, but especially a craft store)
Jul. 6th, 2007 02:53 am (UTC)
off topic but LOVE the icon! So cute!
Jul. 6th, 2007 03:29 am (UTC)
Mod Podge 101
Toss the sponge brush for starters. They always leave a lumpy surface because they apply the Mod Podge unevenly. You can lightly sand the surface to get rid of the big ridges, then wipe with a tack cloth or just damp paper towel and let it dry before you coat it again.

In the future, be sure, to sand all wood surfaces smooth before you start. Then wipe them clean with a tack cloth or barely damp rag.

Get a wide (1 inch or more,) soft bristled brush to apply the Mod Podge. The bigger the surface, the bigger the brush. Always rinse the brush before stating and gently squeeze the water out. Smooth the bristles flat. It should be slightly damp when you start.

Keep the brush quite wet with Mod Podge, so it doesn't feel like it is dragging on the surface. Try to avoid working back and forth over the same area too much - it will make bubbles which also make the surface bumpy. If you work in one direction (with the grain of the wood if there is one,) you will get a better result too. Work in good light so you can see if there are any streaks or dry spots. Let it dry until it is clear before you put on a second coat. (I always use at least 2 - often 3 or 4.)

Wash the brush well with water and a little soap immediately after each use. Gently squeeze the water out and smooth the bristles flat so that it will be ready to go for the next coat. If you let Mod Podge dry in the brush, you will never get a smooth surface from it again.

Um.... TMI?
Jul. 6th, 2007 02:21 pm (UTC)
Re: Mod Podge 101
This is how I do it too... also, I get better results on unfinished wood if I prime/seal it before I 'podge.

Also use a better quality of paintbrush. The cheap dollar store ones suck. I tend to use a synthetic bristle wide/flat paint brush.
Jul. 6th, 2007 04:52 pm (UTC)
Re: Mod Podge 101
Oh, good points! Synthetic brushes don't absorb water so they don't get soft and sloppy, and a coat of paint or Mod Podge, first, will seal the wood and make everything lie flatter and stay smoother.

Jul. 6th, 2007 05:46 pm (UTC)
Re: Mod Podge 101
This is terrific! Just the info I need. I was working on cardboard picture frames not wood though.

I put one coat of mod podge on the frame, then I pressed down paint chips until they held and didn't pop back up. I got mod podge on my fingers from this and some of it stuck to the mod podge so there are little lumps. What do you hold down paper with if not your fingers?

I also did two or three layers of paint chips in some parts to make a pattern. I put mod podge on the paint chips already there and then pressed down the next layer. Should I put the mod podge on the back of the paint chips I'm going to put down instead of the layer already there?

Jul. 6th, 2007 10:27 pm (UTC)
Re: Mod Podge 101 ( .5)
Thanks! I am glad it helped! Your project sounds really cool! I hope you will post a photo when it is finished.

When you work on cardboard or paper mache pieces, it is the same prep as wood. They are both porous surfaces and it helps if you seal it first (with paint, Mod Podge or spray sealer,) so it doesn't pull the moisture out of the next layer. It needs to stay wet while you work as well as to cure properly.

I use my fingers too, and sticky fingers are a problem alright! I keep a wet sponge in a saucer nearby, and wipe them off a lot. I tried all kinds of other tools - but they just aren't as "handy."

It doesn't really matter if you put the MP on the paper or the project - although it is "neater" to put it on the project, which also works best for very thin papers or small pieces, and I usually put it on both the paper and the surface with heavy pieces so they will soften and be more flexible (and will stick better.)

As soon as each piece is in place, gently smooth and bond it with a layer on top while it is still wet. If you are doing many layers, or layering heavy papers, it would be good to let it dry between layers or it may turn cloudy from trapped moisture.

When the design is finished you can put one or several layers over the whole surface to level it out a bit. Thicker papers and muti-layered designs will have a raised pattern, which I like, but if you want a smoother look you can add more layers of MP.

I have found I like the look of "Matte" Mod Podge best. It is really more of a satin finish so it has a low shine and little imperfections don't show as much as with the "Gloss" finish.
Jul. 6th, 2007 07:05 pm (UTC)
Re: Mod Podge 101
GREAT tutorial! :o) I've been MP'ing for years and wondered why mine looked so gunky, turns out I used dry brushes!
Jul. 6th, 2007 08:45 pm (UTC)
Re: Mod Podge 101
Thank you! I teach decorative painting and we use Mod Podge - a lot - for all kinds of processes. One thing is certain - your result will only be as good as your brush, so a (damp) fine bristle, synthetic brush is the best choice. I use a 3" - 4" brush for flat surfaces, and a 1" for smaller areas.
Jul. 6th, 2007 09:12 pm (UTC)
Re: Mod Podge 101
okay, since you are a pro MP'er, how do you get the sticky feeling off of it? The last project I did was a box that I collaged, however, once I put the lid on it AFTER it dried for 3 days, it seemed to be glued shut!
Jul. 6th, 2007 11:07 pm (UTC)
Re: Mod Podge 101
That is one problem with Mod Podge! It takes a lot longer than you think to totally cure, and it never gets rock hard - not even close. It will always have a flexible, "plastic" finish, that wants to stick to itself. (Acrylic paint does the same thing.)

You can try giving it a final finishing spray of urethane or varethane sealer. That will give it a thin layer of harder finish over the sticky. But give it plenty of time to totally cure first - a couple of weeks and even more if the MP is many layers thick - and shake the can WELL or you will just add a new "sticky" problem.

I have resorted to baby powder on somethings, but usually I try to put little or no MP on the touching surfaces. I have found that painting the lip and "meeting parts" with a paint pen instead of MP or acrylic paint works well - and it might work over the MP too - worth a try. I often use the gold pen for accents anyway, so it "matches." Or if you want a clear coat on the edge, clear nail polish also works for small items.

Jul. 6th, 2007 11:16 pm (UTC)
Re: Mod Podge 101
Wonderful advice, I will have to put it to the test!
Jul. 6th, 2007 03:35 am (UTC)
so im odd and def read that as decoupage steaks and was like wtf
( 17 comments — Leave a comment )

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